Tanzania – Selous NP to Udzungwa NP


Off we went to Selous, via Morogoro, on the main road, a fairly dull, uneventful journey, very dry grey and brown scenery and villages. Morogoro, itself was surprisingly lush and green, lying at the foot of the Uluguru mountains. A nice ,bustling town ,we stayed at a small hotel, Kola Hill Lodge, very nice, clean and reasonably priced ,considering everything here is hugely expensive and we ate delicious fresh fish and chipsies. To be recommended if you are in the area.

I’d been eaten alive by something and my feet had swollen up, all fat and puffy with red spots……most attractive,so I sat with my feet in a bucket of cold water to soothe the excruciating itch, this seemed to help and next morning back to normal.

Drove to Selous, the back way, along a little used road, through forest and well kept villages, before dropping down the spectacular escarpment, across the plains to the edge of Selous. Stayed at a very basic but fine camp, the something annex, which seemed to be the only one, about 15 km from the park entrance. A couple of Massai guys were running it, they showed great interest in car maintenance!

Into the park(and I have to add ,before I forget we saw at least 60+ of the RARE Ground Hornbills!)

Supposed to be the dry season, but clearly the rains had come early here as well and all the large herds we were hoping to see had dispersed, however we now understand why they call this place Giraffic Park, as there were so many, but as always, lovely to see, so elegant and of course I can never get enough photo’s!

Saw plenty of the usual, bad point was that many of the lakeside loop roads just didn’t exist and despite $15 for a map we wasted half a day going down dead ends before retracing our steps to the main park road and heading to east side pools. All very nice but expensive for poor standards.

Spent the night at same campsite then left next morning for Undzungwa mountains, east side not the better known west tropical side. Not expecting much at all but surprised to arrive at a lovely campsite outside park under huge fig trees etc. clearly well used by ellies and other beasts.

Already there was Tomas & marielle and young daughter Tuva 2 (Swedish) – he had worked here as professional hunter for several years, a policeman and best sausage maker (Butcher) in Sweden 3 years running – a character as they say. Elephants and beasts of the night included hyenas. We decided to have a day doing stuff as it was so nice. Next day they hiked to a waterfall, we stayed put , Tomas decided it would be good to buy a goat and have a full on meat fest – Tanzanians love their braaied meat. So off we go to a village with a local guy. Caused a bit of a stir or rather Tuva did, the local kids found this little blonde bombshell very amusing. Bought the goat – paid over the odds with Tomas ( speaks Swahili) then pointing out to the guy we knew the score and he should be ashamed – he got the message.

Big fire, goat dispatched, Tuva came back for “the peeling” as she called it. On the spit we supplied spices etc. . Cooked in traditional old Swedish style – warm, fresh carcass is rubbed with salt then cooked with baste of more salt garlic and oil nice but I have to say a bit tough..

Also shower by Ms ( in dark) using hoisted bucket with valve – very effective, except he discovered he had ants – big ones about 20mm everywhere inc his nethers no biting thankfully as they looked like soldier ants. There were thousands all he could do was brush them off and get on with it . Snake in loo so I declined both until daylight.

That night awoke to what can only be described as gunfire……it was actually, it turned out, a mixture of Baboon poo and figs falling from a great height….but when your in your tent and a gust of wind comes along, gosh was it noisy.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *