At the Eygptian border,the car was given a thorough going over. We had to take everything out for searching and several keen customs officers had a good old poke around, not too sure why or what they were looking for as we were exiting their country, but thankfully it was all over in a couple of hours, so with passport and carnet stamped, we were out of Africa.

Relieved to be out of Eygpt,we drove a few metres across the border into Israel and repeated the performance all over again, this was a very rigorous search, but at least well organised compared with most African border crossings. After a barrage of security questions,every single item had to go through a scanner, including us and then the whole car when empty, luckily most of our stuff is in plastic boxes and any loose bits and pieces, were put into plastic bags. Weapons, which in our case included Michael’s Massai spear (what a surprise) and an ancient bow and arrow, along with the infamous axe, were promptly taken away as was the gas stove, which they took for chemical analysing.

It made a change to see things being handled professionally and all the customs staff were friendly, helping us to load our kit into trolleys and putting it through the scanning machine. A couple of tour groups were not so happy though, as they had a lengthy wait for us. Finally, they drove the empty vehicle through another scanner. It took several hours before we were free to go, but wasn’t the horrendous experience we’d been led to believe.

In Israel and fairly exhausted after the day’s events, we only drove a short distance and camped on the beach, with good views to Eilat, Jordan and Saudi.

We soon discovered Israel is outrageously expensive and suddenly prices went from 40p a beer to £4.00 sad times!

The following morning,we headed for a garage in Eilat, this had been recommended to us, by Alex, a Landy-lover. The guys here were great and quickly fixed a few minor problems. They can easily obtain parts, so very useful if anyone is ever stuck on this route…………………………..

One of the mechanics asked if we fancied flying home as he wanted to buy the Landy,we declined for sentimental reasons(it would be nice to get the beast home) but I can’t say it wasn’t just a little bit tempting!!

Apparently, Landrovers are very hard to get in Israel and it’s only possible to buy ex-army or very old ones. Never has the beast had so many compliments and photo’s taken despite it’s battered appearance!

Alex and his wife kindly took us to their apartment,they must have thought we looked pretty filthy, as they insisted we have a shower, which was gratefully recieved. After some lunch and chatting with them for a while, we drove out into The Negev Desert, remarkable landscapes, but the higher we got and as darkness fell, the colder it became.

Not for the first time, we found ourselves in a military camp………this is not a good idea and we left pretty swiftly,after being shown the way by the (luckily) friendly guy on the gate. Without any maps or guide books we weren’t too sure of any places to camp especially as the many signs along the roadside indicated Live firing ranges everywhere.

Eventually we saw some cars with mountain bikes on top, turning off-road, so we joined the back of their convoy and a few kms further on, we found a camping spot for the night.

We learnt there had been a rocket attack on Eilat from Sinai the previous day, but we were totally oblivious to this……..what is it they say, ignorance is bliss! Certainly you are aware of the jet-fighters in the skies and young, heavily armed soldiers. We even had a pretty girl in front of us at the ATM, with a grenade launcher slung over her shoulder, at least we didn’t have to worry about getting mugged that day!

Awoke early next morning and left for Ashdod. After a couple of nights camping on Banana beach (not as exotic as it sounds) a few km south of Ashdod, it was a good place to while away the time before heading to the port to catch the ship to Italy.

At the port we found the – Allalouf office (Grimaldi freighters) and after a morning of paperwork, customs and more questions,we were able to board the ship at 7:00 that evening, but wouldn’t actually be sailing until the following afternoon. This in fact turned out to be 10:30pm but we were asleep when it left the port.

A huge car-carrying, cargo ship, with eleven decks, twenty-six Italian crew and a comfy cabin, this was to be our home for the next few days, until we reached Salerno in Italy.

We took part in the fire drill with crew, donning life-jackets, dry suits and safety helmets!

An officer gave us a guided tour of the engine room. I felt a bit like I was on “Blue Peter” but it was very interesting (for the boys at least!) Luckily the sea was not too rough,so we were able to stomach the Italian meals which we ate in the officers mess.

Passed Crete on the way, the mountains in the distance were covered in snow. A taste of things to come perhaps.

After 5 days on board we arrive at Salerno. From here we will travel back through Italy and France, catching one last ferry to the UK


We are all blogged out now, so to round up (before you fall asleep, if not already)

31 African countries

80,000 km

699 days travelled

Over 16,000 photo’s


The wonderful people

Animals and wildlife

Stunning and varied landscapes

No rules

Wild camping



Visa’s,border crossings & beaurocracy

The road to Nyika

Writing the blog !

It’s hard to believe we are almost at the end of the road and would like to say thanks to all those wonderful people, both local’s and travellers alike,who have helped, advised,fed and watered us throughout our travels. Last words have to go to the mechanic’s (some more than other’s) bush and otherwise, who have kept us on the road ………………………remember, a Landrover is ALWAYS sick…….but never dies!!





11:00 am- We headed down to the port at Wadi Halfa. Something of an organised chaos. People everywhere, loading boxes, bags and luggage onto the ferry. Luckily Masar steered us through the crowds, finalizing the paperwork and getting the carnet de passage stamped, without him I think this would have taken an age.The queue at customs was frustratingly slow and though the officials barely gave us a second glance, other’s were given a thorough searching by officials, opening stuff out onto the floor, including one couple, who had several large packets of fish ripped open,Masar thought they would be searching for of gold, they just left the mess scattered about on the ground for the owners to clear up.


We locked our valubles into the back of the car, grabbing a rucksack and sleeping bags to take onboard with us,gave Masar the car key’s, so he could drive the Landy onto the barge a few days later.


Boarded around 3:00 pm, handing in our passports as we stepped on. Feeling slightly bereft without the car, we hoped it would make a pleasant change from road travel.


Masar introduced us to the captain, who for a small bribe, let us have a space on the bridge, giving us a little bit more room to manouvere, as the decks were packed. We spread out our sleeping bags to sit on, but had no shade to speak of and the sun was beating down on us. Our new friends Stefan and Maryse, had managed to secure a cabin, but the door had no lock, so a bit pointless really. We too had booked one, but it failed to materialise. Our bedroom, on the upper deck, however, was fine and they came and joined us for a while. Later on,when the sun went down and the wind picked up things got quite nippy . Stefan joked that they were off to the warmth of their cosy cabin and hot tub (I don’t think so), but kindly lent us his fluffy spider- man blanket to keep off the chill!



The boat left the port at 5:00 pm, every inch of space was taken up with bodies and their luggage, the ferry holds 500 passengers, but regularly exceeds this and has been known to cram in over 650, they are trying to put a stop to this, but it’s doubtful they ever will.


People were sleeping anywhere and everywhere from the lifeboats to the stairwells, making a trip to the loo very tricky indeed, guided only by the light of the moon and not wishing to stand on the sleeping bodies,only having to repeat the performance on the way back. That said one trip to the loo was enough !!


The night was quite eventful, no surprise there, it went from an hour or two of total peace, to sirens blaring, loud conversations, the re-arranging of bodies as prayer mats were laid out and mobile phones constantly ringing. The emergency siren went off twice, but no-one seemed to care about this ,we were so tired neither did we. Snuggled in our sleeping bags we gazed at the stars up above, about to doze off, the captain woke us up with a phone call from Kamal, our fixer on the Aswan side. He only wanted to confirm our meeting the next morning and make sure we had $15 each for visa’s.


I think we got a couples of hours sleep eventually that night and all things considered this wasn’t too bad, though we did feel a little bleary eyed,when the sun came up.


The morning passed and at 11:00 am we had arrived in Aswan. Still had to wait another 3 hours while Eygptian Immigration came on board to stamp over 500 passports.


When the doors did eventually open there was a huge surge of bodies all trying to get down the stairs at the same time with people, pushing and barging, fights and arguments breaking out, we got separated , but managed to find each other again when off the boat.


Faced with another huge queue on the Eygptian side, we decided to sit it out until it subsided and let everyone else go first


Thankfully Kamal saved the day, by turning up and leading us on through the X-ray machines, another couple of hours, we’d collected our passport’s and visa and were out of there.


With 18 hours actual sailing time, it took another 10 hours in total to embark and dis-embark in true African style, which seems crazy considering the relatively short distance travelled. This was one boat trip we wouldn’t forget in a hurry.


Together with Stefan and Maryse we shared a taxi into central Aswan, we stayed at The Kaylany Hotel, nice, clean and close to the waterfont and Souk.



The following day,Stefan and Maryse headed off to Abu Simbel, we were lazy and didn’t feel up to a 6 hour round trip in a hot bus, so took a taxi out of town for a few day’s while waiting for the car to arrive from Sudan.


Other overlanders had recommended “Eka dolli”- a small guesthouse, run by Khaled, the helpful owner, who doubles up as the excellent cook. Located in The Nubian village of Gharb Sahel we enjoyed a well earned rest.


We spent our time walking around the village, stopping to watch the local craftsmen at work, chatting to the locals, admiring their colourful houses and courtyards, which they are only too happy to show you. Had many interesting conversations with Khaled, he fed and watered us well!


On our return to town, Stefan told us the car would be yet another couple of day’s wait. This came as no great surprise, but was slightly annoying, as our boat from Israel is booked and dosen’t give us much time to explore many other points of interest in Eygpt.



Michael had a haircut……….. he’s been to barbers all over Africa, but nothing had prepared him for the scalping the Eygptian barber gave him.



(Michaels version of events)


It started off harmless enough, a nice short trim all over, but before I knew it I was into a whole new experience,the barber opened a drawer and produced a smallish pair of clippers and shoved them straight up my nose, as I was recovering, he leaned forward, dipped his hand in some brown goo and wiped it all over my face, at this point I decided to go with the flow as resistance seemed futile, with things happening too quickly to complain. As the stuff was smeared around and left to dry for a minute or two, he then rubbed it all off in a fairly vigorous fashion. Whilst I was still smarting from the face- pack removal, he took out a reel of cotton, twisted various strands together, rubbing and pushing the wad in and around my ears, removing hairs I didn’t even know existed. Eyes watering I gritted my teeth and hung on while he did the other ear, stiff upper lip and all that.

Relaxing at last thinking it was all over, I panicked when he reached for the cotton again, this time the target was my cheeks, temples and forehead and I think my eye-lids, but couldn’t tell because of the tears (seriously) He then proceeded to brandish various cut-throat razors, took off the barbers cape, yanked down my shirt collar and shaved my neck and half my back as far as I can work out. My head was then shoved in a basin, rinsed, then after a liberal dose of some foul smelling oil, I quickly got up and paid him, before he got hold of anything else and staggered to the hotel room ………….. where I got absolutely no sympathy.


Emma’s view being that women do this sort of thing all the time, my view is that anyone who does this willingly and pays for it needs pychiactric help!!




Wev’e seen plenty of soldiers and police on the streets, especially on the waterfront in Aswan. All heavily armed with machine guns, not to mention armoured cars, most vehicles appear to be spanking brand new, maybe they put them here for the tourists. The soldiers, who look extremely young, sit around smoking, but are always very polite, if rather intimidating as their weapons are usually pointing straight at you


One thing however is clear, everyone wev’e spoken to here is more than happy with what the army has done, they seem to want nothing more to do with Morsi or the Muslim brotherhood and all sector’s of society just want the new election’s out of the way so that they can move forward. The view on the ground, seems to be alot different than that portrayed by the media in the west, as is so often the case.


After several day’s in Aswan, we decided to go on a Felucca (cheap price!) This is a traditional wooden sailing boat. Stefan and Maryse, joined us. Abdullah was the captain, full of charm and wit. It was pleasant enough, we sailed around some small islands, until the sun-set . It wasn’t long before we had run out of wind, neccessitating a tow from a motor boat, which was quite amusing. Having disembarked, we were approached yet again by another guy selling Felucca trip (cheap price!)…… it’s something like a nervous tic when they see a tourist approaching! Can’t blame them as we only saw a handful of tourists in Aswan.


Got up early to collect the landy, apparently the barge had arrived. Suffice to say what was meant to take 2 hours took 6, before we got our passports, carnet, Eygptian number plates, car searched etc. We paid Kamal for his services, though somehow during these few hours he managed to break his arm ………dont even ask- !!


Because of the delay, we headed for Luxor on the supposedly quicker desert road, the two hour journey actually took four hours. Quite a lot of this was in the dark, as we’d forgotton about the time zone change. Driving in Africa after dark is not a good idea and this was no exception. The Eygptians don’t bother with lights, even if some of them clearly work, and normal overtaking is only allowed when a vehicle is approaching from the opposite direction at point blank range, when both parties switch on whatever lights they have, presumably to blind the opposition or to enable them to see the opposition. Thankfully there were no people, animals etc to contend with, which is normally the case.


Eventually we found our way through a myriad of tiny streets and alleys, the two Landy’s attracting a fair bit of attention and camped at AL Salam on the west bank of the Nile opposite the main city of Luxor.


After we had managed to squeeze both vehicles into the little courtyard, Ahmed, our host, found us some nice cold beer and rustled up an extremely yummy chicken tagine. Exhausted we all retired to bed.


Being in Luxor, we paid a visit to The Karnak Temples,hopped on a boat and went across the Nile.


This is reputedly the largest ancient religious sight in the world. It dates from as far back as several thousand years BC. A treasure trove of buildings, structures, columns, courtyards and Obelisks. ( Ems been reading too many guide books me thinks) There is also a sacred lake there. Quite incredible when you see the work involved. Very impressive, but quite hard to get your head around.


Jumped back in the boat and visited The Mummification Museum. A display of how the ancient Eygptians would mummify not only humans, but crocodiles, household pets and fish. All the exhibits are in mummified form, including the body of Masaharta, a high priest of Amun in Thebes in 1050 BC (see, I’ve done my research)


We had a fair ammount of hassle from the touts though, with many (mainly Russian) tourists about, this took the pressure off us somewhat. They dont take  no for an answer – michaels line was you pay me and i still wont take the things eventually usually got through


From Luxor we went across the desert to The Red Sea coast. We stayed in Hurghada, a tourist spot, souless, but with no tourists to speak of. The booking agent- namely me, eventually got us into a Russian hotspot – all other countries have banned flights it seems -, perfectly pleasant, but Russians indulging in some dreadful group singing went on for much of the evening. It’s definately over when the fat Russian sings!


Left the next day, we made good time so decided to carry on to the east side of Suez, so we could cross the Sinai Desert the next day, having been told this road was now open.


We only had one route on the sat-nav and that wasn’t too clear, so we did a few loops of Suez before ending up in the city centre itself, this was not our intention, as we knew there were lot’s of rallies planned in every city to mark the third anniversary of the revolution and also show support for General Al Sisi, to run for presidency.


Before we knew it we were heading the march, up the main street fronted by around fifty soldiers, who cleared the crowds, everyone was very excited as we were clearly foreigners and many, I think, assumed we were also showing support. So we had several youths, grown men etc hanging off the car and waving their flags. A brief moment of panic when someone let off some firecrackers right beside us, with me ducking! Thankfully all very good humoured in Suez, but unfortunately, we heard there were many deaths in and around Cairo that night.


Carried on through the Suez canal tunnel to the east side, which we discovered was just desert and military outposts. Headed 25 km south to another fairly run- down, but perfectly okay( by our standards) resort, again only a handful of people staying and these were Eygptians. Able to stay in 5 star resorts for next to nothing at the moment- wer’e not exactly complaining, but they are not really our cup of tea either, except for the hot showers and white fluffy towels, something of a treat after day’s in the desert!


Not hot enough to go snorkelling and with no time to spare we headed back up to the road that we’d been told was open, across the Sinai. Passed through a couple of sleepy checkpoints, but a further 30 km along the road we came across another checkpoint, with lot’s of lorries at a standstill, we were encouraged to jump to the front of the queue Eygptian style by some very loud and shouty men. The army had other plans though and we waited an hour, in total chaos and confusion, discovered they were searching each and every vehicle, presumably because of the trouble the previous night in Cairo.


The locals did give us a bit of priority and let us go to the front of the queue, but when it was our turn we were searched big time. With both of us told to get out of the car, eight or nine soldiers ransacked the car pulling everything out onto the road. They took a disliking to our compressor,( Michael had to demonstrate it wasn’t a bomb) They then siezed his wood axe, a small machete and best penknife, which they deemed a threat to the armed forces in the Sinai desert, as indeed was 1 bottle of beer and half a bottle of horrible Eygptian gin, which they smashed against a rock. After lots of arguments with various cocky young soldiers and a stroppy officer it was agreed they would return the axe and compressor, but not the other items, they also wouldn’t allow us to travel that route so we had no choice but to turn back.


Back-tracked and went through another three checkpoints at one junction alone, resorted to Eygptian tactics, namely shouting, Michael was losing it ….oh man. For the first time in nearly two years I felt close to tears.


This set the pattern for the day. We now had a 650 km detour around the Sinai peninsular. It’s a good job diesel is only 10p a litre!


Tanks, troop carriers, soldiers and BIG guns are everywhere you look, countless road-blocks on the way to the southern tip, Sharm el- sheik. On one occasion we were held for one hour with several other locals, before being told we could go and the “security” would follow. At another block a guy selling shaving kits attracted everyones attention so they abandoned their posts for twenty minutes while everyone haggled.


Summary 200 km -12 hours


Due to all the road-blocks, we had to drive in the dark (again) and didn’t arrive in Sharm el- sheik until late. Luckily our Swiss friends, who had already arrived, booked us somewhere to stay. We were absolutely knackered.


Early next morning, expecting more of the same,we continued towards Taba, thankfully only a few road-blocks and little hassle, the mountains were certainly impressive and the roads good, but with all the hundreds of half finished hotels and holiday complexes all along the Red Sea, it makes quite a depressing sight, both for now and in the future, if ever finished.


Thinking all was fine and dandy, we hit the sack at 10:00 pm at a rather sad, empty hotel, only to be awoken by several security guys and sniffer dog. We weren’t happy,as they wanted to search our car for bombs, but could and should have done so when we’d arrived if they were so worried, we’d arrived at lunchtime, so a little late to be searching for explosives which they always do at set times it seems – security is not Egypts strong point!!. We had no choice, other than stagger out to the car-park half asleep, unlocked the car where a fat German shepherd, had a little sniff but was too fat to hop on the tail gate or into the backseats, so everyone gave up and we went back to bed. (all a bit Alice in Wonderland really)






Still struggling to post photos – combination of glich and poor connection


Drove across the highlands, passing through the Atbara Gorge we dropped 2,000 metres only to climb up again before descending down to Matema, the border with Sudan.


Note for fellow travellers, make sure youv’e got plenty of dollars and or Sudanese pounds, as it’s very difficult to get cash in Sudan, as no ATM’s work due to the US embargo, which includes Visa/Mastercard transactions. Plenty of money- changers either side of the border and also in every town. Fuel (diesel in particular) was scarce with large area’s having none towards Khartoum.



At the border, first barrier, the customs building is on the right and lunch seems to be something of a moving feast, about an hour each side of 2:00 pm. We waited 45 mins until they re-opened at 2:30 and the Carnet was dealt with quickly, a bit of an arsy inspector who wanted to know where everything we owned had come from, he was looking to claim duty on Ethiopian purchases, though when he realised how many countries we’d been to he soon gave up, after having a bit of an argument about whether Uganda was in Ethiopia!


Up the road about 100 metres to immigration, note this is not meant to open until 3:00 when the generator starts up, but we were dealt with before this with no electronics,whatsoever (tough luck FBI) there was no registration at the border and when we went through we were told to sort it out in Khartoum.


One little surprise in store, was when we were told of a further stop another 100 metres up the road which is hidden another 100 metres behind the police station where there is a security office and man asleep. Very simple, quick and easy. Another 1 km up the road, final checkpoint and barrier, with fuel station beyond.


Off we went, it was very dry, very flat and VERY hot (40 degrees and it’s winter)


A stark contrast from the Ethiopian Highlands only a few hours before, completely different in both speed, climate and population which seemed to be non-exsistent, all of which was actually a pleasure and the few people that we met were very polite and incredibly friendly, which made a nice change.


Found ourselves a nice but rather pricey hotel, as it seems they all are here and quality they are not!


Got up early, chatted to a local guy, who invited us for breakfast, which here is the main meal of the day, but dosen’t start until 10:00 am, so we sadly declined. Went on our way, Khartoum bound, lots of smiling friendly policemen,with several toll booths along the way, though we were never asked to pay anything until near Khartoum when we were charged 3 sudanese pounds. Good modern road into the centre of Khartoum, a strange mix of modern buildings with African stuff in between.


Arrived at “The Blue Nile Sailing Club” not as exotic as it sounds, ie- a car park between the Nile and the main road, which was hardly the best spot in the world, but not as grotty as we had been led to believe, except the loo’s and showers which were disgustingly smelly. Our neighbours were a team of guys organising a cycle race from here to Cape-town (normally Cairo, but Egypt not good ) so started here instead, 40 people paying a crazy ammount of money to cycle.


Started the quest to find a route home, not alot of action as Saturday is Sunday here…………..to be continued.




Firstly we went to Baaboud Shipping, drew a blank as they only have sailings to Jeddah in Saudi and not up the Red Sea to Jordan as we had hoped.


Next stop, The British Embassy, to make inquiries , they were shut for a week, telephone number given on the board outside proved to be hopeless, tried an out of hours guy Mark’s number, who was quite helpful, but didn’t really know anything, he promised to get back to us when he had more information.


Off we went to The Saudi Embassy, where we were told to come back the following day. Thankfully another, more helpful chap directed us to a kiosk further down the road, where it seemed all applications had to be handled.


A very nice man, told us it would be SDG350 , but we would need a Jordanian visa and then our application would take three day’s, but it was certainly possible.


With our hopes raised (slightly) off we went to The Jordanian Embassy, the address given on t he website is wrong, so we were directed on to a second address, only to find that it had moved location.


At this point, Mark from the British embassy phoned us to say the Egyptian Embassy had confirmed the Wadi Halfa border was in fact open. Incidentally the Jordanian Embassy, for anyone who needs to know,seems to be near The DHL building, which all the taxi- drivers will know.


We decided, after all to gamble on The Wadi Halfa- Aswan crossing, with Saudi to Jordan as plan B.



Although we didn’t stay at The Acropole Hotel in Khartoum,we would just like to say how helpful everybody was here.


Firstly they did our registration for us, for a small fee and our passports returned the next morning,then they got our travel and photography permits processed at the ministry of tourism, we only had to provide passport photo’s and again, these came back the following day, with several extra copies free of charge. There seemed little point in wasting time and effort, looking for all these establishments, especially as we had enough on our plate with the various Embassies. They allowed us to change Dollars at the official rate with them and as ATM’s won’t give you any money this proved very helpful, though in Khartoum you get asked all the time if you want to change Dollars, just not at the right rate.


Mr Dilling also assisted us as travel agent/researcher……thanks Peter.



After several day’s in Khartoum, we left for Wadi Halfa on a fine road, both commenting on the ammount of burst and shredded tyres littering the sides of the road……….sure enough, we were the next victims. We pulled over and my mechanic got to work, he was assisted by a sweet old boy who poked some rocks behind the wheels to stabilise the car. With the wheel replaced, we discovered, somehow, that what he was really after, was a lift. I had to heave him into the back on top of our boxes, walking stick and all, we dropped him a few km down the road.


Although, not many people on the roads, the ones we did pass, smiled and waved, shouting welcome, welcome! Strange though, hardly any children to be seen and very few women.


There were some other battered old Landrover’s and plenty of ancient beaten up Bedford trucks, which were crammed full with people and goods, a fast and furious means of travel, they call these The Desert Taxi’s (bokasi’s)



On and off we followed The Nile, until we reached The Pyramids at Meroe,these are over 2,000 years old. In total, there are around 100. Sadly most have been decapitated by a mad eccentric Italian man, who was looking for treasure, but failed. We were lucky enough to be able to wild camp right beside them.


Michael was poking around under the car when I was approached by two men on Camels.So fed up with car mechanics, I decided to play tourists and went for a Camel ride!


It was amazingly peaceful that night and the stars, absolutely stunning, nothing beats camping in the desert, miles from anywhere, with no-one around,though the dodgy starting on the Landy,( since the mechanics messed up the electrics when fitting the new gearbox) adds a bit of spice when your so far from civilization, though I thinkwe could have relied on the camel men to come to our rescue!


We had a great nights sleep, peaceful, with no Call to prayer,dogs barking,traffic noise etc, it was 8:00 am before we woke up, unheard of.


The car DID start the next day and we carried on to Atbara, we stopped to buy a tyre to replace the burst one and swopped others for the spares,they are all fairly well buggered as they say, but always travel with two spares.


Cutting through The Bayuda Desert, very hot, not alot to see, other than sand, a scattering of mud houses and the odd camel ,no worries, this was the desert at it’s finest.


Arrived in the town of Karima, stayed at Al Nasser Hotel, a small basic, but clean guesthouse with a cold bucket shower. The friendly owner told us we must register with security, so off we went again a few streets away, filled in the neccessary documentation,then found a nice little street cafe with all the locals drinking tea and coffee. We ordered “ful “the staple here in Sudan. It basically consists of


brown beans, stewed for hours in a large metal caldron, this was served with a fiery chilli sauce and rounds of bread, it was quite delicious and as always we were starving. We washed it down with a couple of bottles of coke which despite our best attempts, still didn’t taste anything like wine!! (alcohol being illegal here)



From Karima we carried on to Dongola, crossing The Nubian desert, lots of dead and decomposing Donkeys on the roadside,these you smell long before you reach them. With the speed of the buses and desert taxi’s, which slow down for nothing, it’s easy to see why there are so many.





Dongola was full of street cafes,all selling felafel,fried fish and ful and the colourful fruit and veg stalls had plenty of nice fresh produce, a few reasonable dry good shops here too, including a pharmacy.


We drove around the dusty streets endlessly looking for gear oil, with a helpful young man who got in the car to show us where to look, at last we found some, but wouldn’t have without his help. For some reason they seemed to be demolishing half the town and the wall of one building collapsed before our very eyes!


That night we wild camped on the banks of the Nile, as we set up camp we were plagued by thousands of irritating little midges that got in your hair,ears, up your nose and pretty much everywhere else too. Managed to cook up some veggies, whilst batting the dam things, Michael braved it and had a washing bowl- shower, I’m afaid I opted fot the wet-wipe-wash……..again!


A fantastic sunset,followed by beautiful starry skies followed and the midges soon dispersed, we lit a small fire, it get’s freezing when the sun goes down, supped our bottles of seven-up(yum) and retired to bed early.


6:30 am the following morning after (a light) breakfast, we got a severe ticking off. Two men arrived and told us we were in the midst of an excavation sight, as we looked yonder we could see all these people hard at work…..woops!


Apparently Tutankhamen built a temple here in the 14th century BC and the Temple of Amun lies next to it. The area was excavated by the British in the 1930’s, but has been covered again by wind blown sand. Archaeologists have started more excavations of the town and cemeteries elsewhere on the site and continue to make new discoveries, unfortunately, that morning all they found was us!


We left quite quickly and in our haste to get away, veered off the track slightly and promptly got stuck in the deep sand, rather embarassingly, I got down on my knees and started digging us out, while Michael deflated the tyres. This seemed to do the trick and soon we were out. The workers must have had a good laugh though!



With the Landy behaving reasonably well, it was only a matter of time before something else took a turn and sure enough the invertor blew up and our solar panel lost the will to live. Solar we can just about live without, it helps in keeping the fridge going when we stop for a while, but the invertor, is a pain, as we use it all the time to charge phones, camera and laptop when on the move. With power points hard to come by and the laptops battery lasting about an hour these day’s,communications might get a little scarce from now on. It had a good life,but was full of sand and dust when Michael took it apart.



Continued following The Nile for mile upon mile through the desert until we reached the small market town of Abri on the East bank of The Nile.


Almost immediately, we were greeted by a young man called Magzoub, who spoke very good English and was friendly and helpful.


According to our book the only hotel to stay in Abri is The El Fagre Hotel, appropriately pronounced El Fucker and has half a dozen grimy rooms! Not so anymore, as we were soon to find out, Magzoub has built himself his own hotel, in traditional Nubian style, but with proper loo and shower, although not yet completed,it was lovely, with nine rooms set around a courtyard overlooking the Nile, complete with electricity. SDG 50 (£5.00) per person per room, though this is likely to increase when work is completed.


For other overlanders-Nubian traditional guesthouse, Abri,North Sudan.GPS 20.48’23. 56N     30.20’49.64E



We had a late breakfast/ lunch (Nile Pearch), fried, with a spicy sauce, salad and bread, with Magzoub, followed by tea and a shared shisha (water pipe) in a small cafe meeting his friends, Along with the Malawians, they are, without doubt, some of the nicest people wev’e met on our travels.



Magzhoub invited us to his friends Nubian wedding in a village nearby.There were masses of people of all ages, they shook our hands and seemed more than happy to have us there,although we felt slightly out of place, Magzhoub insisted it was fine.


Introduced to the groom, dressed in his jallabiya and looking very smart, he let us take some photo’s,we used the Polaroid, so we could print the pictures instantly and give them to him as a small present.


The bride was a slightly different matter, she was in a darkened room with several other ladies and is not allowed out until after dark when the music and dancing starts up. They had already been married in a mosque, so this was the reception


Before marriage the bride is prepared with inscence, smoke baths, heavily decorated with Henna, elaborately dressed and covered in jewelry. On the wedding night the bride and groom go to The Nile to wash, to ensure their prosperity.


The bride herself was, of course looking beautiful, but was very shy, all the other ladies fussed around her, positioning her on the bed for photo’s which I gave to her, she seemed to love these. After this, we found all the guests wanted their photo’s taken too!


For the feast, huge metal platters were laid out in the courtyard, with little dishes arranged on them, containing all sorts of tasty things, Lamb stew, Aubergines with garlic, spinach, beans and tomatoes, salad and fresh bread, followed by sweet tea of course.


We decided to leave before the proper celebrations got under way, it would have been interesting as they love their music, but we didn’t want to out-stay our welcome, hitting the road with a huge bag of dried dates Magzhoub had given us.


That night we camped in the desert, it was absolutely freezing, so we snuggled up in our tent, fully clothed with plenty of bedding……yet it was only 6:30pm!


Although around 30 degrees in the day time, temperatures drop significantly at night, especially in the desert. It’s winter here at the moment,in summer temperatures reach can reach 45- 50 degrees, which must be unbearable. Apparently it hasn’t rained since 1988 !!



Met up with Masar in Wadi Halfa, he’s our fixer for the ferry crossing into Eygpt. We had been communicating with him a few days prior to this and found him at his house…….eventually.


You can organise this yourselves,but it requires alot of time, effort and patience,all of which we are quickly running out of !


You need to arrive 2-3 days before the ferry leaves, to insure all the immigration procedures have been completed for both us and the car.


The weekly ferry is the only way to cross into Eygpt from Sudan, as the land border remains closed.


The voyage takes around 18 hours, give or take a few, the captain only sets sail, when he considers it full, but it sounds to me like it’s always full to overflowing. The car goes separately on a barge, usually at around the same time but takes longer to reach Aswan. This is were Masar comes in again, as he has to have the keys and drive it onto the barge, as we will already be en-route.


We have met a lovely young Swiss couple, Stefan and Marissa, also travelling in a Landrover, they are taking the crossing too, so we have some English speaking company, this is good news as Michael and I ran out of converasation some time ago!


Hoping to pass through Eygpt fairly swiftly for obvious safety reasons.Taking the coastal road along The Red sea, into Israel to catch a frieghter to Italy……..that’s the plan, though never a good idea in Africa!


Addis to Sudan


Left the thick smog of Addis behind us, passing through The Blue Nile Gorge, this is cited as one of Africa’s largest canyon’s. It was indeed spectacular, but a bit hairy at times, our gears started playing up, crunching and the Landy refused to go into forth gear and several others on occasions, believe me, the Ethiopian Highlands was not the place for this to happen. The mountains were enormous, over 2,500 mtres every couple of kms, luckily much of it was spent going at a snails pace. Michael decided he needed feeding (as you do while peering down a sheer plunge of 100ft) so we stopped at what we thought was a rather magnificent view-point, only to have a Landrover full of police arrive telling us to move on, in a not-so-friendly way.


A night was spent at Debre Markos, on the top floor of a six storey building, in the centre of town, this also proved slightly un-nerving when you see how they construct their buildings here, we both woke in the night because of the foul smelling drains, we put wet cloths over the plugholes to stem the stench and eventually went back to sleep, dreaming of the bush!


Next day,we left, after forgetting to shut the back of the car up, half our kit fell out into the busy road, I rushed around dodging tuk-tuks, donkey’s etc, managing to retrieve most things, with only a couple of breakages, a few locals helped me too, so I gave them our bread rolls and avocado’s, for their kind assistance. I’m actually quite surprised this hasn’t happened before.


We then left town and journeyed on to Bahir Dar, the car struggled badly, suffering gear problems and altitude sickness this time (as did Michael!)


Things weren’t helped by kids throwing stones, shouting names and spitting. Not very endearing and something wev’e never experienced before. Sadly this dosen’t inspire you to wave and smile as we normally do, but every now and then you get some gorgeous little kid waving and youv’e already passed them by without acknowledgement and you feel so bad for not having waved back.



The next few days were spent in Bahir Dar, an attractive town, quite large, with palm lined avenues,situated on the southern banks of Lake Tana, Ethiopia’s largest lake.


We were camping, on what appeared to be the public footpath through the gardens of The Ghion Hotel, with no privacy whatsoever, but being quite used to such things by now, it wasn’t as much of a problem compared with those we faced with a sick Landrover.


Next day,no less than four mechanics appeared (as they do) this time they stripped the car and took out the gear-box to find the problem, which we soon discovered was no synchromesh/4th gear, but lots of horrible broken bits instead………..oh joy, clearly we wouldn’t have got much further, so better to deal with it there, rather than than middle of the Sudanese desert .


We were well looked after, on the public footpath, by a couple of very protective guards who shouted at everyone who came near us at night, as we had the car’s contents scattered around us, including the gear-box,car seats etc, unfortunatelythough, in the daytime we had a fat drunkard, reeling around, shouting and singingwho kept telling me I was beautiful and trying to kiss me with his nasty alcohol stinking breath and believe you me I certainly wasn’t feeling that beautiful and Michael, none too charitable! Stressy times.


.Finally got away – complete gearbox required as it had eaten second and 4th – amazing we still moved..

Headed to Gonder spent night in posh hotel – well its got hot water and reasonable food. Heading for Kartoum to see if we can get out of africa via port to Jordan – if not we will have to rethink Egypts clearly getting worse so no hope there!

It may b some time.before next post.

Hopefully posted piccies formatting of some posts might be odd – the mother did something only she knows how and no time to try to correct




Border to Addis


Crossed into Ethiopia, easy enough to change money on both sides of the border, but you obviously don’t get very good rates this way, there’s an ATM in the bank on the Ethiopian side, despite what the book say’s.

Other overlander’s be warned,you may meet Biruk, who claims to be something akin to Chris, from Jungle Junction’s long lost brother, he is a tour guide/fixer, potentially useful, but be warned conversations constitute work and therefore require payment . We eventually tracked down Omar, who everyone regarded the best mechanic in Moyale- (0911722353) he sourced parts, then fixed the prop.

We stayed at Koket Borena Hotel, not bad, but not great either, a very busy, noisy place, accomodating mainly locals, but with no other options availible to us,we were just glad to get some sleep.

Set off the following morning, car going well, until about 20 km up the road, when there was yet another horrible noise and we discovered the rear half shaft bearings etc had fallen apart, another success chalked up to the so-called expert Landrover mechanic in Uganda. Phoned Omar, who found a hubb, we had all the other bits,and after a few hours on the side of the road, during which we were inspected by a steady stream of local kids, we were on our way once more.

Slightly concerned, that at this rate, we’d be needing another year to get out of Africa, we steadily drove on toYabello, on a patchy, pot-holed road for the first half, then good tar after that, stopped again en-route,for a minor brakes repair and overheating issues, topping up with water every 40k,leaving behind us a huge audience that had gathered at every stop- all with their hands out.

No camping in Yabello, so we stayed at Hotel Wabi in a little room with a cold shower and very stinky drains, ate some good Ethiopian food at The Yabello Motel.

From here we went on to the Lakeside city of Hawassa, in the Rift valley, 300 km south of Addis Ababa, camped on the shores of the lake at the Midroc Zewed village,they let us have a shower in one of the rooms, we had to fight off the monkeys who bombarded the car, but it was nice enough as a stop-over.

Had a whizz about town in a tuk-tuk that evening, which took us to “Dolce vita”for a very disappointing pizza, the book had claimed it “the best Italian” in town, so we got all excited, the book lied I think and we should know better by now!

The food is really quite good,tasty and very cheap. The staple is Injera, a huge pancake- shaped substance made from tef. The tef dough is fermented for up to three days before cooking. It is normally served with a bowl of spicy wat stew, plus beans and veggies,sadly Injera dose’nt really do it for either of us,being reminisent of a piece of old grey foam, with a rather strange flavour, an aquired taste me thinks, naturally Ethiopians love it and have it with everything in huge quantities

Tea and Coffee is lovely,drunk black and strong, slightly spiced with plenty of sugar added, in Michael’s case at least.The lumpy camel’s milk has put me off a white cuppa!

We had wanted to visit South Omo,with all it’s different tribespeople,which sounds so fascinating and also the Simien mountains, to find an Ethiopian wolf, but with various on-going car issues, we decided to play it safe and headed straight for AddisAbaba instead.

The six hour journey was long and the road incredibly busy, the landscape’s are stunning in some parts,but it’s all eyes in front of you, Ethiopia has a huge population and most of them are in the road! Along the way we encountered hundreds of camels,cattle,donkey’s, carts and people literally everywhere.

The begging was appalling however and without doubt the worst country wev’e visited from that point of view. The children have their hands out at every opportunity, shouting “you,you,you” or just simply “give me money, give me your watch, give me water” or whatever it happens to be. It is, in a word, exhausting, the hawkers won’t take no for an answer either .

Not alot of produce on sale, as in other countries, the only readily available product seems to be huge quantities of “Chat” a stimulating leaf that is traditionally popular with muslim’s forbidden from drinking alcohol, it is commonly chewed through Ethiopia and in our opinion accounts for alot of the totalled vehicles you see on the roadside. Many lorry and taxi drivers chew it to stay awake on long journeys. Sounds good, but unfortunately it turns your teeth black,not so attractive, might give it a miss!

Arrived, exhausted, in Addis. Set up camp at Wims Holland House,best described as a bar with a small patch of grass to camp on, right in the heart of Addis. Wim is Dutch, married to an Ethiopian and lived here for years. They have been very helpful to us,finding another mechanic and other such things. We spent Christmas here, which isn’t celebrated, so it was a fairly low key affair, however a Dutch couple, Ed and Wilma arrived on Christmas Eve and we enjoyed a few drinks with them. They too are travelling and trying to get to Dubai. They informed us Egypt is not allowing any 4×4 vehicles into the country at present, so we are currently looking at alternative routes to get home. It seems you may be able to ship from Sudan to Jordan, so this is the hopeful plan..

Coast To marsabit and Eithiopia


Checked in at Umoja Camp, on the banks of Ewaso Ngiro River, supposedly a women- only camp, it was created as a small village for women to escape their violent husbands a few years back, they then started a curio shop, selling homemade jewellery and finally the camp-site. That said,we certainly saw a few men around, maybe they’ve been forgiven. Either way it has become something of a success story by all accounts.



Sambaru NP was small but pefectly formed, we spent a fantastic day there. The vegetation and landscape was varied and beautiful, though the river was flooded at present. With many different loops and good sandy tracks to travel on, it was a pleasure compared with some of the bigger, more expensive parks.


Home to several semi- desert beasts, we saw most, which include Gerenuk, Grevy’s Zebra, Fringe- eared Oryx and Somali (blue legged) Ostrich.


Huge herds of big tusked, big eared Elephants and large groups of Giraffe. Plenty of birdlife too, we spotted a secretary bird, Bustards, Orange bellied parrot to name but a few.


Next day, we drove 244 km to Marsabit,the first 60 k being pristine tar, but of course this was just too good to last. Camels and Storks on and along side the road in their hundreds. Stayed at Henry’s Camp,which was lovely, peaceful and had water, the shower was simply amazing and HOT- just what was needed the night before the dreaded road to Moyale.


Well rested and raring to go, we left a misty Marsabit early next morning prepared for the worst, luckily the sun soon came out, clearing away the drizzle and having established a police escort was not needed as some had suggested, others pronounced the road safe, so we decided to go for it.


The first 30 km was perfect, but after this, things started to deteriorate,though not nearly as badly as we had feared and in parts it was alot better than some roads wev’e travelled on. Apart from Camels,there’s not much to see, though through the thick, red dust it was hard to tell. With road improvements going on in parts, huge lorries came thundering past, chucking filth at you that gets into every nook and crannie.We certainly wouldn’t want to tackle this stretch in the rain, with the dust being preferable to getting stuck in thick mud. Wev’e heard some horrendous stories and there were plenty of vehicles on the side of the road that hadn’t made it!


We pushed on, past Turbi, the only small town en-route and with not far left to go, after being on the road for nearly five hours, we could hardly believe we were almost there ………… then, a horrific noise came from underneath the Landy,we stopped and jumped out, only to find the prop-shaft had dropped off, or at least one end had. At this point we were only 5 km from the border at Moyale. Michael got to work in the blistering heat, managed to remove it completely, luckily being a Landrover, we were able to continue without the prop-shaft and limped on to the border. Luckily for us, the border crossing was very straightforward, as we really didn’t need any hassle at this point, to say we were pooped is putting it mildly!




Nairobi to Coast


Left Nairobi, with visa’s finally stamped in passports and safely locked away. The main route to Mombassa quite simply is, the highway to hell, 90% lorries, 10% buses and us, everyone drives like lunatics, this road is definitely not for the faint-hearted (like me)

Relieved to reach Tsavo West, which is technically semi- desert and should be burnt to a crisp at this time of year, however this was not the case and everything was very lush and green.

Arrived at the gate to National park very late, only to be told the only camping was 35 k away in the middle of the park. Off we went,meeting a couple of large bull elephants, who didn’t appreciate our headlights too much. Found Chyulu camp, which turned out to be lovely, no water but nice and wild with only us, a Leopard coughing nearby and some very noisy hyena’s .

Next morning it was raining, but this soon cleared and we set off to explore the park. We weren’t really expecting to see much, as the animals disperse when there is so much food around ,but we were pleasantly surprised to discover what a beautiful and varied place this is, with good roads, lots of signs, always helpful. We saw Dik-Dik’s in huge numbers, common as rabbits, as well as Duikers .

Stopped to have a look at The Shetani Lava Flow, being only a few hundred years old, it’s quite a strange sight. A vast expanse of black lava spreads for about 50 sq kms across the savannah, at the foot of the Chyulu Hills. The last major eruption being around 200 years ago. There are still a few plants growing among the cinders.

Moving on we spotted some beautiful reticulated Giraffes with fantastic detailed markings on our way to Mzima Springs, this again is a weird phenomenom, resulting from the porous volcanic rocks. The springs apparently produce an astounding 250 million litres of fresh water daily, this is then piped to Mombassa several hundred kms away.

Home to Hippo’s, crocs, etc, it also has an unusual underwater viewing chamber, it was interesting to watch all the fish and strange beasties, swimming by through the portholes. We thought it might be a good idea in other parks too.

We had decided to head for the coast , abandoning our plans to stay in Tsavo East, because of the dispersion of animals and also our time limit, here it also very wild and covers a vast area.On our way, travelling through the park though, we did see the famed “Red Elephants”, which are quite extrordinary, not quite pink, but you can spot them from miles away for a change. It was really nice here and Well worth a visit.

Michael was chuffed as we saw some Vulturine Guinea Fowl, which he’s wanted to see since he was a boy………aah………..we’ve since seen masses of course, they have such beautiful markings.

On a sad note though, there are only 18 Black Rhino left in the whole park, which along with Tsavo East, was once Africa’s stronghold for the species, which numbered several thousand, as late as the 1980’s.

Another 100k back on” The Highway to Hell “took us to Voi, not much in this little town, but we did find a good place to camp at “The Red Elephant Lodge”, very quiet as they had no customers, so they let us use the shower in one of their rooms. Lonely Planet had no camping listed, so we were very grateful to find this place.-800 ksh per person.Camping in this area is not that easy, which we found rather odd.

Voi to Diani Beach,had the sat-nav misbehaving, so we took a a scenic,short/long cut,which actually turned out to be quite harsh, but passed through the Shimba hills national reserve, finally arriviving at Diani Beach.

Although we’d been warned it’s somewhat touristy, it was actually fairly deserted, maybe we arrived at just the right time, before the Christmas holidays.

Chris from Jungle Junction kindly offered us the opportunity to stay in a property on Diani Beach,he has ended up as executor to a will, part of which is a lovely beach villa here, with a fantastic pool at the quiet end of the beach, complete, with the shy and rare “Blue monkeys” leaping around on the roof, which are difficult to see everywhere else in Africa. Sadly we only had three days here, before we had to move on. The beach, as you can see from the photo’s isn’t bad! The Indian Ocean and pool are, shall we say pleasantly warm, no hesitation in getting in here, with temperatures averaging 35c. Plenty of diving and snorkelling to be had around here too.

Had a seriously good seafood pig-out on the beach, King prawns, Calamari and crab, all for a snip fantastic location, on the beach,with great service, something of a rarity in Africa. This was to be our Christmas lunch, as we expect to be in Ethiopia on the day itself, most likely with a tin of beans, Although wev’e been told the food is great there.

Kenyan’s everywhere have been celebrating 50 years of independence with 2 day’s public holidays, apart from some rather dodgy TV coverage and the odd party going on, we kept out of it.

We are finding the people here pretty laid- back, hospitable, friendly and helpful, as we have found everywhere, nobody bother’s you, even the police have waved us on at the road blocks but although they might ignore us, there’s still a very high police presence, for instance, being searched before you enter shops and plenty of military with rather large guns in the aisle’s, only to be expected I guess, given recent events.

Left the coast after a nice relaxing break, stayed the night at Hunter’s Lodge, on the main Mombassa to Nairobi road, they let us camp in their gardens, wev’e given up looking for sites and just have to be bold and ask if we can camp in the car-park. We thought Kenya would be awash with camping, but sadly this hasn’t been the case for us.

The following day we by-passed Nairobi on “The Outering Road!”- supposedly a short cut to take us on to Meru, not so as you’d know it, more like an off-road training course, nose to tail through a very muddy, hugely potholed, seriously busy, part of town,plenty of minor shunts, with everyone trying to sell you the usual stuff, Donkey’s,cattle and kids everywhere, absolute bedlam!

Having got past that minor hurdle, joined the A2 a major road with a 100k speed limit- only problem is, the speed bumps and Zebra- crossings every 30 metres, all a bit random, especially given Kenyan driving practises and ending up in complete chaos!!

Arrived safely surprisingly, in a town called Kibuko, no camping here either, but tired and weary, we saw a battered old sign, claiming “Spa and Accomodation”. Neither in fact were true statements and it certainly wasn’t anything like the spa’s we get at home! They let us camp though after fleecing us on the price, but as we were so tired we couldn’t be bothered to argue.

The bar-maid, a buxom wench offered Michael a massage, which he rather cowardly refused ( I thought) She then took a shine to our much cherished box of wine, I let her have a small glass, but she kept coming back for more, so we had to get tough.

Strange men seemed to come and go throughout the night and with no lighting in “The long-drop” toilets, I really couldn’t bring myself to enter….. the bushes for me again!

The owner of this, no doubt brothel, promised to light us a fire, maybe he felt guilty because he’d charged so much for “accomodation/car-park”………the fire never really did get going until the following morning, just as we were leaving!

Next stop Sambaru National Park